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How do we mix our products?

We can add the oil phase to the water phase when making a lotion and still get a great lotion. 

AN IMPORTANT ASIDE:

tempering your butters

frequently asked questions

What do we heat and hold?

How do I heat and hold?

Why should I heat and hold?

Why do we need two separate containers? We're going to mix it all together eventually and/or I don't have enough space to heat two containers in my double boiler?

 

What if I can't heat and hold? 

Please read this post if you're new to the blog before writing to me...it's a short tour of the blog and it'll give you some ideas on where to find things around here.

BTW: I'm Swift

Please note, I'm Swift - not Swifty!

If you are writing to me for help on a recipe, please include your recipe and creation process. Otherwise, I'll just have to write you back for the details. And please note, I have a full time job and a lot of volunteering obligations, so I generally only have time in the mornings to respond to e-mails. I love receiving e-mail and love writing back, but it may take a few days!

Our classes are held at the Chilliwack or Yarrow libraries, and all programs are FREE! We might ask you bring some supplies, so check when you register for the craft groups. You need to register for Get Crafty! and Genshiken - you do not need to register for games night or Rated T for Teen Video group.

To download a copy of the Chilliwack Winter & Spring youth programs, please click here.

To register call (604) 792-1941 and press 4 for the librarians.

Wednesday, June 15th, 6:30 to 8:30 - GENSHIKEN! Thursday, June 16th, 5:00 to 8:30 - GAMES NIGHT! Thursday, June 23rd, 6:30 to 8:30 - HOW'S THAT MADE? Crafter's choice - chocolate!

Saturday, June 25th, 1:30 to 4:30 - RATED T FOR TEEN VIDEO GAME CLUB!

Look for the summer schedule coming early next week!

And here's the schedule for the Yarrow library. To register, please call the Yarrow library at (604) 823-4664.

To raise money for

our youth groups

, I've put together these e-books! If you want to learn more about the books or donate, click on the bolded links!

Lotion Making 101

Back to Basics: Anhydrous Products

Hair Care Products: Shampoos & Conditioners.

Click on the links above to learn more about the books. If you already know what you want or want to make a general donation (as per Nancy's request), click the button below! Thank you so much for supporting our youth groups. You have made it possible for us to continue offering our programs (and we're thisclose to buying that sewing machine!)

U tags

I tags

Click here for a post

with some ideas for mixers, blenders, and other things that can help with this part of creating your products! 

Hi Susan! I thought I'd ask you a simple "I want to know" request. I was wondering about the mixability of jojoba oil. Does it mix well with water, or does it need an emulsifier? What about mixing with oils? Also, beeswax for the same above question. 

Hi Susan, what I understand from reading the Dr. Z explanation you linked is that the oil phase can be added to the water phase and phase inversion will still occur. Dr. Z described adding the oil phase to the water phase and having an initial w/o emulsion form because of the lack of H-bonding and low HLB of the heated emulsifier. It then said that at the Phase Inversion Temperature the emulsion changes to o/w. It did not mention anything about adding the oil to the water or the water to the oil and any effect of either on phase inversion occurring so I don't understand why you say the water phase must be added to the oil phase.

I really credit the way Anonymous wrote the comments above.

Here are a few thoughts I had yesterday

on how to approach someone - specifically me - with contradictory evidence. It was done in a curious and respectful way, as one seeker of knowledge to another, with no insults or personal attacks. I really appreciate that approach! 

...All facts begin as dreams dreamt by a wizard! 

Mr. Show, "The Limits of Science"

You can see some great examples of readers sharing information that contradicts what I've written

in this post

. Observe the way these wonderful readers correct me - in a very supportive, mature way. And notice that I've updated what I've written to include their suggestions. This is a great example of how to approach someone when you want to share contradictory information (otherwise known as telling them they're wrong!) 

Here are some of my thoughts on how to research ingredients and ideas

, including my favourite textbooks and websites! 

As an aside, it's always nice to see a name on a comment, rather than Anonymous. For some reason, there's something weird about seeing that. You don't need a Blogger or other account, just put your name at the end of it (for instance: Written by Susan or Bye for now, Susan!) or something else so I can get to know you! 

When heating and holding, do you take the temperature of each phase at intervals, or do you leave a thermometer in each container, or some other option? 

I always wonder whether I should be taking the temperature by not touching the tip of the thermometer to the base of the container. Thinking that the base of the container is hotter than the ingredients inside and it would not reflect a true measurement! What's the best way to measure?

When I make balms (non water) with shea butter it forms grainy bits after few days. Some people say when shea butter is melted it should be heated and held for 20mins at 70˚C temperature to prevent graininess and others say the faster you cool off the shea butter mixture by putting it into the freezer for few mins the less it will go grainy. And some say just to soften shea butter not melt. What's your experience with shea butter in anhydrous products?

If a butter, like shea or mango, is part of the oil phase, will heating it over 70 make the final product grainy? What does cause the grainy-ness?

AN IMPORTANT ASIDE:

Lise and Robert - two very knowledgeable readers - have written the following in the comments (which is why it's a great idea to read them now and again!) 

Lise: As for shea butter (I use refined), I've found slow heating over very low heat keeps the butter 'grain-free'. I've discussed butters many times with my suppliers and have always gotten the same answer - don't cool in the refrigerator!

Robert: The advice which we received from (perhaps the world's largest supplier of Shea butter) is similar to that posted by Lise Anderson: Heat to 70C to melt butters and oils and cool in a temperature controlled environment between 18C to 20C. There was no mention of rapid cooling.

I've had good success with rapid cooling in the fridge and/or freezer for both shea and mango butter when I'm tempering them or when I'm making a lotion bar, butter, or other anhydrous product, but if the suppliers are saying different, then follow their lead! If they are suggesting cooling at room temperature, then cool at room temperature (which is generally 18˚C to 20˚C). I didn't find this worked for me - I still had grainy shea butter - but anecdotes don't make data, and "working for me" is my opinion, not data. I will still continue to do what I've been doing, but if you find that it isn't working for you to put your products in the fridge or freezer, then try room temperature! Please let me know the results! 

I'm not sure what this means for tempering your butters because the heating and cooling is an essential part of this process. I'm all ears! 

If you want to see the original post on this topic,

click here

. For more frequently asked questions, look to your left to the section called 

frequently asked questions

Click here if you want to learn more about

micelles

before reading this post.

Click here

if you want to see this post in full because it's really quite interesting! 

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Thursday, October 13, 2011

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

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Sunday, October 9, 2011

Saturday, October 8, 2011

Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Welcome to the blog!

What's coming up next!

My e-books

Free downloadable PDFs

Links to lists!

Frequently asked questions

Bath & body guides to ingredients

Where to get supplies (Canada).

Cosmetic ingredients safety links

My Favouritest Links in the World

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Who the heck is Swift?

H3

Thursday, October 13, 2011

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Monday, October 10, 2011

Sunday, October 9, 2011

Saturday, October 8, 2011

Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Welcome to the blog!

What's coming up next!

My e-books

Free downloadable PDFs

Links to lists!

Frequently asked questions

Bath & body guides to ingredients

Where to get supplies (Canada).

Cosmetic ingredients safety links

My Favouritest Links in the World

My Blog List

Labels

Blog Archive

Who the heck is Swift?

H4

H5

H6

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Creating products: Combining the two phases - mixing!
heating and holding phase
Click here for a post
7:57 AM
formulating
Question: Mixing oils and water
what do you want to see? post
click here for more information on triglycerides
Jojoba oil
ester
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5:30 AM
anhydrous
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Creating products: Combining the two phases!
Click here for that original revelation
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Here are a few thoughts I had yesterday
7:00 AM
formulating
lotions
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3:46 PM
Questions: What options are there for double boilers?
electric fondue pot
heating and holding
7:00 AM
helpful hints
Question: How to test temperature of your phases?
heating and holding
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Question: Heating and holding butters and graininess?
heating and holding
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Creating products: Heating and holding
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Can I make up large batches of product and store them?
Can I substitute one oil for another in a recipe?
Can we use grocery store oils for our crafting?
Can you give me some ideas of what I can substitute if I don't have an ingredient?
Does heating and holding my product ruin the oils?
How can I adjust the pH of a product?
How can I tell if I've found a good recipe?
How do I calculate percentages from weights?
How do I compensate for evaporation after heating the water phase?
How do I figure out when to add an ingredient?
How do lotions fail and why?
How much emulsifier should I use?
How to convert percentages to weight in recipes?
Is grapefruit seed extract a preservative?
What does pH mean?
What does solubility mean?
What is water activity and how does it relate to sugar scrubs?
What's an INCI name and why should I care?
What's the "soaping effect"?
What's the difference between anionic, cationic, and non-ionic?
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Where can I get supplies in America?
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Where can I get supplies in Europe?
Which oils should I buy as a newbie?
Which surfactants should I buy?
Why do we heat & hold in two phases?
Why do we heat and hold?
Why do we weigh our ingredients?
Why does my butter go grainy?
AHA
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Anti oxidants
Basic formulating ideas for lotions
Basic lotion making instructions
Boron nitride
Butters
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2011
October
Creating products: Combining the two phases - mixi...
Question: Mixing oils and water
Creating products: Combining the two phases!
If you want to dispute something I've written...
Questions: What options are there for double boile...
Question: How to test temperature of your phases?
Question: Heating and holding butters and grainine...
Creating products: Heating and holding
Question: What if you go over 70˚C when heating & ...
Creating products - a moment or two on finding rec...
September
No post this morning...but a question
Question: How do I modify the recipe when I add or...
Question: How do we know what version of an ingred...
Creating products: Questions about Polawax versus ...
Creating products: Equipment for measuring pH
Creating products: Equipment (part 2)
Creating products: Equipment (part 1)
Creating products: Assembling your ingredients - w...
Creating products: Assembling your ingredients - p...
Creating products: Assembling your ingredients - o...
I'm on the TV!
Creating products: Choosing your recipe
Creating products - an overview
A few days off
Thoughts for a not-so-warm Tuesday morning
Why we don't heat & hold in the same container
Questions about mixing
Questions about heating vessels
Question: Evaporation!
Question: Organic products and preservatives
Question: What exactly is a lotion?
Ecocert preservatives - kind of a wrap up
Preservatives: NataPres (Ecocert)
Preservatives: Liquid Leucidal (Ecocert)
Preservatives: Advanced Aloe Leuicdal (Ecocert)
Question: Adding preservatives to anhydrous produc...
Your regularly scheduled programming will resume s...
We're back!
August
I'm away for a few days...
Thank you so much for your support this summer!
Question: Cosmetics Info vs. EWG
Question: BTMS-25 and products not emulsifying
Question: Are the ingredients I mention on this bl...
Question: Are floral waters and hydrosols the same...
Almost Friday
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external links

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Wikipedia
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Dr Z link
paper on choosing emulsifiers
data sheet on Polawax
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here's a link
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click here to see the one at Voyageur
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temper chocolate
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Soapcraft
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Click here for a tutorial on how to use a 1M tip
img
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please click here
Click here to see the table of contents.
Click here to see the table of contents
Table of Contents
Butters - comparison chart
Butters - profiles
Carrier oils - comparison chart
Carrier oils - profiles: Apricot kernel to jojoba oil
Carrier oils - profiles: Macadamia nut to wheat germ oil
Conditioner tutorial
Exotic oils - comparison chart
Exotic oils - formulation ideas
Exotic oils - profiles
Facial product tutorial
Green tea extract - formulating fun!
HLB worksheet (in Excel format)
Lotion making tutorial
Oil chemistry
Polyphenols!
Rosemary extract - formulating fun!
Surfactant comparison chart (NEW)
Surfactant tutorial
Swift's Favourite Recipes (NEW!)
Things you might find in oils
Coenzyme Q10
Aquarius Aromatherapy - bath & body supplies (Mission)
Creations from Eden - bath & body supplies (Edmonton)
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Soapcraft (Maple Ridge, online only)
Suds & Scents - bath & body supplies (Abbotsford)
Voyageur - bath & body, candle making (Surrey)
Cosmetic Ingredient Review Safe as Used guide (INCI & usage rates)
Cosmetic Ingredients Review Quick Reference guide (INCI, usage rate, sources cited)
What's in cosmetics & personal care products?
The Dish Forum! Bestest place ever!
The Beauty Brains - cosmetic chemistry!
Personal Care Truth - new, but looks interesting!
Lovely Scientist Loves Science!
Creations from Eden - great new Canadian forum!
Chemist's Corner!
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